Monday, 13 October 2008

Five days in

Namaskaar! [Hello!]

Kya hal hai? [How are you?]

Achaa! [Good!]

So, between you, me and 110 krore (1.1 billion) Indians, I'm not the world's best traveller. My 'a gentleman will walk but never run' philosophy isn't so effective in the overseas trenches. Besides which, I like to know where I am and where I'm going and which bus to catch and how much it costs -- ahead of time. I'm not quite obsessive compulsive about it, but my brain runs smoother when I have the territory mapped. I stress less.

In which case, the first three days in India were full on. This country, with the greatest respect, is like a zoo with the keepers missing. What I mean is, it's every living organism for itself. The most ubiquitous organism, of course, is humankind. People everywhere, doing everything, all the time. It's mad and magical and not a little confronting. Mostly indescribable. Of course, it's not a zoo to the locals, it's home. This is settling.

But the last two days I've finally taken the proper plunge. I've wandered for hours through the local markets and back streets, the only white guy for miles. I've had two 'fights' with autorickshaw wallahs. I want to go one way, they generally want to take you to their 'friend's' shop. The first altercation, I got out of the rickshaw twice before getting my way. Walking away is a powerful bargaining tool.

I've caught a local spine-crunching crash-defying bus 150 km south to Mysore to see the palace (unbelievable opulence) and wander the town (extraordinary simplicity). Once again, the only white guy on the streets, which is enough to prompt locals to ask for a photo or touch your skin. I've pushed my way onto the bus back to Bengarluru. Ya gotta push, or miss out.

Unlike all you savvy travellers out there, this mode of being is kind of new to me. For various long-held deep-seated psychologically compelling reasons, I've been tentative in life.

Last night, bumping back through the warm night, listening to a track called 'Home' by All India Radio on the iPod, I even got a little teary about it all. To paraphrase David Malouf ... I am nine years old. I am 40. I am infinitely alive and creative. I am there.

Namaste.

Fermilengi! [See you later!]

xo

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Namaste Ad...
A bit hard to "go the road less travelled" in India but off the beaten track is the only way to see the sights outside of the Lonely Planet.
Enjoy. Our hearts and travel desires are vicariously with you.
Yvette

Yvonne Adele said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Yvonne Adele said...

G'day mate! Stone the freakin' crows.. big ups to you for keepin us up to date. Love that Mysore is named after the feeling you have in your arse once you get off the spine crunching bus.

I have been an adventurer today too - I braved 120 minutes on a plane with all you can eat Foxtel to come to Brisbane... ok - YOU can have the award for worldly traveller then.

Keep em comin you trio of beauties.

Mega
(sorry i deleted that last comment of mine.. i posted it with the wrong ID)

Anonymous said...

Hi Ad,

Gideon loves the music you have chosen. He bopped along when we read your posting. Wow! It sounds crazy over there. Nothing i could comprehend from the travel i have done. We are all thinking of you lots . I was sick over the weekend and listened to most of the first test. ?are you going to the 2nd test. Play a couple of Counting Crows covers for the locals on the travel git - see if they get into it!
All my love and happy travels,

Luke

adamnrave said...

Thanks for your comments! Keep reading. We'll try and post something once a week. Namaste. xo